Once Scotland’s hardest trad route back in 1983 when it was established by Dave Cuthbertson, Requiem and its newer variations have played an important part in Scottish climbing for nearly three decades now. At E8, 6b (around F8a+) it’s had a fair number of repeats but until today it hadn’t had a ground up ascent. Well, it has now, courtesy of Will Atkinson.

 

Will commented on his UKC log book:
Get in!, first ground-up ascent since it was put up in 1983!, probably the most physically and mentally challenging thing I have ever done. I didn’t think it was going to happen before I had to move back down to Yorkshire but it all came good in the end. Has to be one of the best routes in the UK without a doubt, now who’s going to on-sight it?

 

Having first tried last summer in the heat, he’s been back on it this spring and made relatively quick work of it. After each fall Will pulled the rope but left the gear in situ from the following attempts but is still it’s best ascent to date. This gets Will into the triple 8 club too!

 

Is six weeks enough for a second ascent of Achemine, E9 6c, before Will moves back to Sheffield??? Only time will tell. Awesome work Will.

I had the pleasure of hauling myself up Mr Cassidy’s static rope on the headwall yesterday to get some shots of Will as he continues his ground-up assault on Requiem. You can’t really get much closer than he did without sending it but it made for some good photos. Attempt two of the day was abandoned when the heavens opened leaving me a little wet 80 feet off the ground. Click the images to enlarge.

Here’s a few photos I took the other night of Will Atkinson on Requiem. Click the images to enlarge.

A video of Sonnie climbing the direct finish to Requiem. If you want a bit more background on this ascent and the video check out Sonnie’s blog.